Z3POWER's Website

Dinan versus Everyone else
& my new 0-60 & 1/4 times & speeds....

Let see, the difference between Dinan and other aftermarket systems - - my thoughts & opinion

Dinan:
PROS: An approved BMW tuner. They manufacture a system that complements the ultimate driving machine by BMW. Ranging from simple modifications, to buying from the dealer specialty cars that have Dinan equipment. There are many authorized BMW/Dinan dealers in the USA to help service your car. Dinan makes equipment that allows the car to handle everyday driving better and a little faster.

CONS: High dollars. Dinan does not manufacture equipment to compete in full race (i.e. Road racing or autocrossing).

Aftermarket Systems:
PROS: You can customize the way your car handles and looks. From mild to totally racing. Most of the time, other company's components are at a lower cost. There are many systems and components that work better than the complete Dinan system.

CONS: What ever you do to the car and it breaks or breaks something else; you will have to repair the system with your money. Almost no warranty for installations. With different components from different manufactures, it is difficult to make the system work right, without a ton of experimentation and time.

Summation:
If you are looking to improve the handling of the car and you use the car as a daily driver/part time racer for autocrossing. I would suggest the Dinan system. They sell the "COMPLETE" system that works for your BMW. Plus it helps that they have a warranty that BMW honors.

Now, if you are looking for the ultimate handling car and a significantly faster car, look to aftermarket vendors like, t.c. Kline, Turner, Korman, etc. These guys, make stuff to make your car faster and handle better. These guys mainly deal to the racers. So if you want to race, I would look here.

My thoughts on what I have installed on my car:
1. Dinan Front Strut ($400):
It re-enforces the front end of the car from twists. Though there are other units in the market, most noticable the Strong-Strut, I feel that the added weight of the all steel unit does not justify the difference between Strong-Strut and Dinan performance benefits. Plus, I think it looks better.
Was it worth it? Yes.

2. Dinan Stage II Suspension ($1800):
Replaces the front/rear swaybars, springs, struts, shocks, and the installation of a swaybar mount brace for the rear lower control arms. The system, lowers the car by approx 1". It also gives you adjustability of the sways, struts and the shocks. Though to adjust the rear shocks, you need to jack the rear up, remove the wheels, unbolt the suspension from the axles (big pain in the butt), remove the shocks and then adjust. The only MAIN problem you will have, is the increased camber of the rear wheels. You will notice additional inner-tire wear. To fix this, you will need to install camber adjusters (about $250). Dinan also sells this for $200.

If you race or autocross; I would recommend either Dinan Stage III or IV systems. But, if you want a daily driver, I would recommend you to replace the shocks and swaybars + the braces. Lowering the car will change the camber of the wheels. Changing the camber will make your car corner better. But unless you live at the Gap, it is not worth changing the camber of the wheels.

Was it worth it? For what I do, no it was not, I think for the money, I should have gone with other aftermarket systems, but still purchase the Dinan swaybar brace. Because I autocross very heavy and love to drive my car hard.

2.a. UPDATE, I have since removed most of my Dinan Stage II suspension. I have since installed H&R springs and Bilsten Monotube shocks. During the switch, I used the aftermarket shock & spring setups from the M-roadster/coupe. Now the reason, why I removed the Dinan set up, I found out that I had collapsed the rear springs! Yep, my hard driving has done the impossible. This was confirmed at HC01. This is when I deceided to change almost everything. I would like to thank Paulo from HMS Motorsports for helping me figure out what was needed to switch from a regular Z3 to a MZ3 shock/spring setup. ($ 1000). This price includes the other components necessary to do it right.

Was it worth it? Yes, though I do miss the adjustable Koni's, this new setup has worked very well for me. May be in 2004, I will be looking into getting coil overs. We will see.

3.Dinan Stage II software ($400):
It removes the up rev limiter, changes how the computer runs the car with a Cold air intake and exhaust system.

Was it worth it? Yes, I noticed a smoother running car. I also like the Shark system; it would work very well too. I like the the Shark for the ability to switch back to stock. I have heard good things from both systems. You will not go wrong using either software.

4.UUC Short Shifter Kit ($300)+ Shifter ($100):
Shortens the height of the shifter (both the kit & the shifter) and the stroke of the shifter. The shifting effort is higher than stock. You really need to force the shifter into the gate. The gates are closer together. The shifting effort became easier after a month. It helped to have a heavier shifter. Made it easy to push the shifter into gear. Now it feels just right. I noticed about a 3/4" drop of stack height from stock. I also noticed that the effort to shift from 2nd to 1st was harder. I still think that the Porsche and Miata units are still the best in the biz.

Was it worth it? Yes.

4.a. UPDATE: during Homecoming 2002, I purchased Doug Whalen's stainless steel shifter from JonM LeatherZ tent. I could only install in once I returned home to NC, because NO ONE HAD the correct allen wrench, not Dinan, not LeatherZ, no any of my friends...Anyways, once I installed the unit, WOW. What can I say, what a great piece of engineering. Installation was simple and the action of the shifts are way better. The height is lower than my old UUC unit. The only thing major that might affect me in the long run is the larger diameter knob. Compared to my UUC the Whalen is significantly bigger, this might affect me, because of my small hands. As soon as I start racing, I will be able to give a better report. Other than that, GREAT JOB DOUG!

Was it worth it? Yes.

5.Fogg/FONG Cold Air Intake ($30 + beer breaks):
To allow more air into the engine for the least amount of money ($30 + 3 hours labor). This modification that I designed with the help of Shawn Fogg, works as well. I like the fact I kept the use of the stock filter and I did not need to spend up to $600 for a CAI. Check out the following LINK to see how it was done.

Was it worth it: YES IT WAS!

5.a. UPDATE: during 2002, I had replace my stock filter with a K&N panel filter (sorry forgot the cost), I purchased it from one of the local auto parts store. Once installed I did not notice any Hp/Tq increases with this change. I suspect that you would notice a better change if going with those aftermarket cone filters. But then you would have to spend up to $600. Is it worth it to you? I have recently noticed that HMS is selling a cone CAI and it costs about $200. This is what I thought a system for our cars should cost. I might go do this in the 2003 and sell my K&N panel filter on EBay.

Was it worth it? NO.

6. SuperTrapp Exhaust ($150):
To lower the weight of the car and reducing backpressure to allow the car to exhaust the gasses faster & louder. The SuperTrapp system allows the car to customize the horsepower and Torque of the car, by adjusting the spacers that mount to the exhaust. It does do what it states to claim. Weight of the 'Trapp is approximately 7.0 pounds.
BUT, I have run into a problem with the state inspection for the car. North Carolina has a new law on having an actual TAIL PIPE stick out from behind any muffler system. Since mine does not, I have manufactured a "tailpipe".

This link shows how I by-passed the new NC state emission law on tail pipes.

I have reduced the weight of the exhaust system by over 15 pounds and the sound of the engine is great. When the car is idling, you could not tell that it has an aftermarket muffler. Even when the car is running at a steady state, it is not very loud. It is when you put on the gas that you know you have something behind you. I love it.
Check out the following link to see how it was done.

Was it worth it? Yes.

6.a. UPDATE, I have since removed the stock resonator from the system. It was made of stainless steel and weight in approx 25#. I noticed a louder and deeper exhaust note from my car. Though no increase of Hp or Tq. I do plan to redo the piping to make the exhaust flow better, by using 60-mm tubing. I might do it later after autocross season.

Was it worth it? Yes.

7. HMS Light weight Flywheel ($730):
The lightweight flywheel can change the acceleration characteristics of the car. It will make the car launch quicker from a standing start or rolling start. Plus, the reduction of weight was important too. This upgrade was mainly to help my racing urges. One negative side note is the additional gear noise from the transmission. The lightweight flywheel works great for autocrossing or road racing. But, I would not use it for a daily driver.

Was it worth it? Yes.

8. Racing wheels & tires ($389/wheel + $130/tire)
When I was looking to purchase dedicated racing tires and wheels, there were many different brands out in the market. I had three criterias that I wanted to full fill. First was lightweight. Second was cost - - as always. Third was performance.
After searching and waiting for many months, I system I picked was the SSR Competition Wheels (17"x8.5") and the Kumho's V700 Victoracers' tires (225/45-ZR17). Once I installed them and had my first race with them, I noticed a BIG difference of performance. I was able to launch harder and faster. Get around the corners quicker than before and stop faster. The only negative point is the fact that these are for racing only. Although the wheels can be used on the street, the tires cannot.

Was it worth it? Yes.

9. EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads ($100 Front/back):
Purchasing these brake pads, I wanted to be able to stop faster than stock. Plus, the ability to reduce the time it takes to heat up my pads to cause brake fade. When I installed and used them for the first time at an autocross race. I did not notice a difference in braking distance or effort. It felt similar to my stock pads. I feel that I should and will go to using EBC's Green Stuff brake pads. They are made of a softer compound and grip better than stock. They sound like they are made for autocrossing. Now my Red Stuff pads are good pads, but they are suited for road racing and heavy braking efforts - - Like the Gap drive in April. During the All-Roadster's drive this April 13 to 15, 2001; while everyone else was experiencing brake fade, my brakes were still braking hard as normal. So for hard racing and braking, I would recommend the Red Stuff. If you autocross or daily drive your car, use the Green Stuff.

Was it worth it? Yes, only for road racing.

10. EBC Green Stuff Brake Pads ($100 Front/back):
Purchasing these second pair of brake pads, I was not totally satisfied with the Red Stuff's performance on Autocross races and daily driving (see previous review). Once installed and broken in. I noticed I was able to stop faster than stock. I have done (3) Autocross events and very happy with their performance. I am not sure that I would use them for places like Deal's Gap or an all out road race. So, If you autocross or daily drive your car, use the Green Stuff.

Was it worth it? Yes for autocrossing or daily driving.

11. JT-Designs Tranny Rings ($70 Pair)
These "Rings" are a cheap way to have a harder transmission mount bushing, WITHOUT replacing the factory units! After communicating with them about seeing if they would work on a 2.8 5-sp, they said it should work. But if it did not they would refund my money. "Cool" I said, so I placed the order. About two weeks later they came in. So that day, I jacked up my car, put her on stands and wiggled my way under to see how to install them. It was quite easy. JTD does not supply any instructions =:( But it does not take a engineer to figure this one out. The rings are two halfs of a circle and are joined by two stainless steel bolts. You have to remove both bolts to mount the unit AROUND the trany mounts. Hand screw them in and then take a allen wrench (english - - sorry I forgot the size) and tighten them. This part takes a long time. Because one side of the donut is easy to get to and tighten, while the other side of the donut will take longer. This is true on both donuts. But with in 30 min, you will be done. Tech tip. I suggest you use high temp Lok-Tite to ensure the screws will not back out. A quick 30 min drive on some of my back roads, MAN CAN YOU TELL A DIFFERENCE. Shifting is tighter (ie trany not moving) and quicker. The only BAD thing is that NVH is a LOT HIGHER. You FEEL the engine in the foot well, shifter and your seat. Oh well a free massage. If you race, and do not want to spend over $100 or MORE to tighen up your tranny, buy JT-Designs. It is worth the money.

Was it worth it? Yes.

12. Porterfield R4S brake pads. ($100 front/back)
I first tried a Z3 that was running Porterfields at Deal's Gap. The owner of that car was Rachel's Emmy. When I was done driving Emmy, I talked with Rachel about her car and specifically her brakes. I found out that she was and still runs Porterfield R4S pads. I was impressed on how they felt and the control I had during braking. It was then and there that I deceided to switch from my EBC's to Porterfields.
Now almost a year later, I finally purchased a set and installed them in May 02. With a bunch of daily driving and autocross events on them. I can safely say that the R4S pads are a better brake pad than my old EBCs. I have more control and they bite into the rotors faster and earlier than my EBCs. This means I can brake later and get on the gas earlier than before. This equals a quicker time around the track and more trophies to take home.

Was it worth it? Yes.

13. Frozen Rotors ($200 front/rear)
I bought my Frozen Rotors from HMS Motorsports, again thank you Paulo, these are the same ones that come on our Z3s and were sent to be cyrogenically frozen. So the size of the rotors are OEM sized. The company says that the treatment will minimize warpage, wear and improve braking response. I swapped out my stockers for these at the same time I replace my EBC pads for Porterfields. So far I have no complaints about them.

Was it worth it? Yes.

13. Hawker/Genesis 12-Volt / 16-Ah Battery ($85)
Since I bought my car early 99, I have had the same BMW stock battery. It is now late 2004 and she has finally given up to be recharged. So it was time to look for a new lighter, better and cheaper battery. After investigating, I found the Hawker battery. It is the same battery as the Dyna-Batt. So far I have had no issues with her. Check out my installation page for the details.

Was it worth it? Yes.

6.a. UPDATE, I recently added the Battery Tender Jr, it is a microprocessor controlled battery charger that can be plugged into the wall. I will have photos and a write up on it.

RESULTS OF MODIFICATIONS:
Since the mods I have done a HP/TQ (DynoJet) & 1/4 mile and 0-60 mph (G-Tech Pro monitoring system), here are the results:

Horsepower @ Flywheel:238.2 Hp
Torque @ Flywheel:222.8 Ft#
Horsepower @ the wheels:195.3 Hp
Torque @ the wheels:182.7 Ft#
0-60 mph: 5.25 sec
� mile: 13.90 sec @ 104 mph

Stock Numbers (at flywheel):
193 Hp & 206 Ft#
0-60 Mph: 6.40 sec
� mile:14.48 @ 95 mph

Future changes:
These numbers are at the ol'MZ3 roadster/coupe range. The car pulls hard and quickly.
Here are a few things I am thinking of installing:
1) 3-way adjustable coil over shock suspension (JRZ, Motron, Ground Control)
2) Hard Dog stainless steel roll bar
3) Safety Harness (Simpson, Takata, etc.)
4) Racing Seat - driver side only?
5) Upgrade my rotors to a larger diameter.
6) Forced Induction via super charger or just get a used S54 MCoupe.

If you have any questions please contact me via email.
z3power65@yahoo.com