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Subject: H&R Wheel Spacers, Stud Extenders & 19-mm Nuts
Cost:       H&R Wheel Spacers @ $ 99.95,
                Stud Extenders @ $ 3.50/ea and
                19-mm Nuts @ $2.50/ea
Total cost of $219.95 plus tax & S&H.

Good:Quick On / Off of both stock wheels and racing wheels.

Bad:Need of the use of a 19-mm socket to remove nuts.

Equipment & Tools:
H&R Stud Extenders:80-mm for the rears, 58-mm for the fronts, all chrome plated by TC Kline.
H&R Wheel Spacers:10-mm per side, for the rear wheels, purchased through HMS Motorsports.
H&R Nuts:19-mm, purchased through HMS Motorsports.
Blue LocTite, Floor Jack, (2) Jack Stands, (2) 19-mm Wrenches or Adjustable Wrenches, Breaker Bar with 19-mm Socket, and a Torque Wrench.

WHY DO THIS:
When I started autocrossing my car, it was a consistent pain in the back side on trying to line up my SSR Competition wheels with the V700 Kumho racing tires to the bolt holes on the rotors. So after a season of fighting bolt holes, I decided to purchase and install stud extenders. The first, yes first, set of extenders I purchased were from HMS Motorsports with the wheel spacers and larger sized nuts. The first set were NON-PLATED studs, even with oil lubricant to ward-off corrosion, the studs started to, GASP, R-U-S-T! Even the chrome plated nuts were starting to contract this deadly disease. So it was off onto the internet to see if someone else has plated studs, and if not, I would look into plating the ones I have. Lucky, I found out that TC Kline carried the same type H&R Stud Extenders. After a few emails back and forth to them, I was ready to place my order.

PROCEDURE:
Off with the old studs
1)First, the car was lifted and placed on jack stands.
2)Off went the wheels. I did one stud set at a time.
   You can see the old studs in these pictures.

3) I had to remove my old rusty stud extenders; this was easier said then done. I first sprayed the studs with WD-40, to help break the molecular bond of the corrosion to the rotor.
4)Then with the help of (2) 19-mm nuts, I threaded on both nuts onto the stud.
5)Using the adjustable wrenches, I tightened one nut to the other nut. The inner wrench will turn counter-clockwise, while the outer wrench will turn clockwise.6)Then with the wrench, I placed it onto the inner nut and turned counterclockwise. This will help remove the stud from the rotor (see picture below).

7)Now if both nuts are turning, take the (2) wrenches and tighten both nuts again.
8)Once the stud is removed from the rotor, remove the (2) nuts, so that you may use them on the next stud. To loosen the nuts, use the opposite direction that you did prior.
9)Do this to all (5) studs (following picture is of the old studs removed and threads cleaned).

On with the new studs
1)Before screwing in the new studs, you will need to clean the threads of the rotor.
2)The best way is to use a stiff cone shaped brush.
3)Now, if you have some debris that will not bush out, you may need to use a dental tooth pick.
4)Always make sure to blow out the debris.
5)Remember using the (2) 19-mm nuts to remove the stud, you will need to use those same nuts to help install the new studs. Mount them on the longer side of the stud's length.

6)After installing the nuts, apply a small amount of Blue LocTite onto the stud's threads that will go into the rotors. NOTE: The shorter side of the threads will go into the rotor. The longer amounts of threads are for the wheel's nuts.

7)Slowly hand-turn the stud into the rotor.
8)Once you can not hand turn the stud any more, use the wrench to tighten the stud onto the rotor.
9)To know how far to tighten the stud onto the rotor, you will be able to see the stud no longer turn onto the rotor, because you have run out of threads on the short side of the stud. NOTE: be careful not to OVER TORQUE the stud, if you do, you will break off the stud's threads. Then you will have to clean out the busted threads and go buy and start over again. Remember that the steel on the studs are WEAKER than the rotor's steel. It is designed this way. The proper torque on the studs are 70 foot pounds.

10)You will do this same operation on the remaining studs on the wheel.
11)Once done, allow the LocTite to cure over night for about 24 hours max.
12)Once cured, place the H&R spacer over the studs. Make sure that the spacer is facing the correct way. (see picture below)

13)Then place on your wheel.
14)Then thread on the nuts and tighten to the recommended torque of 70 Ft*lbs.
15)Final thing is to take your car off the stands.

Finished product with wheel mounted.

SUMMATION:
Stud Extenders:Having chromed stud extenders, make a great cosmetic difference. The chrome should last a good amount of time before rusting. The extenders also allowed for quick mounting of the stock and racing type wheels. I can not see myself going back on trying to line up the bolt-holes between the rotor and wheel.

Wheel Spacers:Before having the spacers, I had lowered my car, using an aftermarket suspension setup. These caused the wheels to camber more than stock and bring in the rear track of the wheels. This with the use of my autocrossing wheels caused my car to have a more under-steer characteristics. Soon after the use of the spacers to widen my rear wheel stance, I found that the under-steering diminished and that I had almost a neutral handling situation, but still on the under-steer side. I was able to control my car better and the feed back was more predictable. I have heard through the message boards that the use of spacers between 5-mm to 15-mm is the best. Any more will add too much force onto the wheel's bearing, causing failure. Now granted, I have not seen or even heard from anyone that has experienced this, but I rather be safe than sorry to see my wheel bouncing down the track ahead of me.

Hot Links:
TC Kline's H&R's Chromed Stud Extenders

HMS Motorsports' H&R Aluminum 10-mm Spacers

HMS Motorsports' 19-mm Chrome Stud Nuts